Monday, December 12, 2011

My dream is to have perfect waves breaking everyday all day, not just for myself, but enough waves for everyone in the universe to get as many waves as they want whenever they want. With locals that are friendly and welcoming to everyone. Where surfing is the ritual that brings people together, and the embracing community connection is what keeps people coming back.

I want to see a Malibu in every town, a Mundaka in every bay, a Superbank at every point. Projects like the Wave garden
and Kelly Slater Wave Company are fantastic, and at the same time there are thousands of miles of coastline with waves that are unsurfable. I believe this can be changed, if my beliefs are flawed (it wouldn't be the first time) please enlighten me.

I believe wave pools exist for two reasons: 1) access is limited to prevent overcrowding and 2) a user fee is charged to recoup the cost of building and maintaining the wave. It seems to me that ski resorts exist because it is legal to build high speed ski lifts and charge admission. It's my belief that if people were allowed to limit access to part of the ocean and charge admission they would build reefs and transform closed out waves into perfect surf. I believe the details of how artificial reefs will be built and how crowds will be managed will be discovered over time, similar to the way the design of computers and the Internet has been discovered over time. I think that computers and the Internet are better, faster, and cheaper then they were ten years ago BECAUSE there are more web "surfers" today then there were ten years ago. I believe that ski resorts have more lifts that are faster and carry more people then they did ten years ago because they have more customers/riders. I suspect that if ski resorts have become overcrowded it is because they are not allowed to expand their terrain. If I remember correctly there was a speed limit on the Internet of 56k over the phone lines, and as the number of web "surfers" grew an incentive was created for someone to develop a faster way to "surf" and accommodate more "surfers". I believe that when similar incentives are allowed in the ocean the problem of overcrowding and the attempted solution, localism, will disappear. A byproduct of these incentives could be things that haven't been thought of yet, like a solution to water pollution and fish populations.

A big reason why I would like to see surfing change is my experience with snowboarding and skiing. I have had wonderful social experiences riding at resorts and in the backcountry. I have always felt welcome wherever I go, even if I show up with a big group of friends. I enjoy the chairlift experience, having a friendly conversation with a stranger and sharing knowledge of the sport is always a good time for me. Parents ski with their children and the resorts have facilities for the entire family. I have rarely had that type of experience surfing. Most people I see surfing have a smile on their face and they are enjoying themselves, and at the same time there a few people with scowls who are giving the stink eye or yelling or putting out some other form of bad vibes. I think this negative energy ruins the experience for everyone, I suppose there some zen masters who can tune it out but I struggle with it. Maybe if there were no ski resorts the skiing experience would be similar to surfing, with the good spots being overcrowded or localized and "outsiders" would be unwelcome. I think ski resorts act as a pressure valve relief, allowing everyone to ride for hours every day and get their fill. I believe Surfing needs a pressure relief valve, an organized place where every surfer can ride a lot of waves whenever they want. I would gladly pay for that experience, how about you?

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